In the 1950s, Singapore was still in its post-war period. Social unrest among different racial groups and communist threats were key issues. There were many conflicts during this period, including the Maria Hertogh riots (December 1950), anti-National Service riot (May 1954), Hock Lee bus riot (May 1955), and riots by pro-communist Chinese students (October 1956) (Raffles Girls’ School, 2010).
The British identified the need for greater political freedom and granted Singapore self-government, with the People’s Action Party (PAP) coming into power. Unintentionally, the communists and PAP had a common goal: to stand up against the British colonialists. However, the PAP’s main aim was to gain full independence by merger with Malaya, while the communists’ main aim was to attain a full communist state (National Archives, 2009).
This post-war period was a tough period for Singapore. During the calamitous Pacific War (1941 – 1945), the Japanese took over all of the British’s East-Asian territories, except India. The British found it difficult to maintain control over their colonial empire after their return, and soon withdrew after two more decades in the region. Singapore needed to rebuild and restore its economy after the war. Fashion, like literature, was a luxury to most of the population, who were still dressed in traditional costumes. These traditional clothes express an identity with regards to the ethnicity of the people. However, the more affluent class of people living in Singapore (e.g. the Straits Chinese) were more Westernised.
Men's Fashion
Men’s dress has been rather standard throughout the past decades. On formal occasions, a man would wear a white shirt with a coat, pants, leather shoes, and in earlier decades, even a hat. This constitutes the fashion of affluent men as they met the criteria of social visibility, conformity, saturation as defined earlier. In fact, the formal style of men’s fashion has remained relatively unchanged.
The affluent class was mainly made up of Chinese and Indians who excelled in trading and running businesses. The Straits Chinese became rich under the British colonial rule. Western education, customs, and pastimes were adopted, and the sons of Chinese businessmen were often sent to Britain to attend university (U. S. Library of Congress, 1989). Westernisation was evident from their style of dressing, as they donned ties and shirts. It was also evident from their style of dressing that they wanted to pursue a different class of culture. One which were closer to the elite culture of the europeans and hence separate themself from the normal natives and immigrants of the state.
Most of the population, however, was living in poverty. In 1960s, the island’s per capita GDP was only 17.5 percent of the United States’ (Huff, 1994), which was a very low figure. The poor economic situation could be seen in the way people dressed. There wasn’t much variation of fashion. Most of the men were usually seen dressed in plain white shirts, singlet and shorts.
Women's Fashion
From the 1940s onwards, Singaporean women were given more standing in the political arena. In 1948, they were given voting rights together with men. Women protested against polygamy. They were also mobilized by political parties with eight women running for office in 1959. Later on, in 1961, the Women's Charter was passed. This shows the greater voice of women as the decades passed from 1950s to 1960s. This movement slowly brought about a change upon the fashion styles.
In addition, the growth of Singapore as a regional textile hub during this period helped to shape the globalised character of women’s wear. Trendy fabric from different countries like Europe, America, and Asia were available on High Street and Arab Street, where women who needed affordable yet trendy clothes for office could purchase such clothes.
Singapore, as a trading center, allowed diverse types of fabric to be imported. This brought about changes to the fashion styles in Singapore. Slowly moving from traditional wear in the 1950s, as shown below:
In addition, with rising costs and higher standards of living, became acceptable for women to work. Government launched family planning in 1948, freed women from traditional reproductive role. Tight-fitting western frocks became popular carries over to traditional garments, adding a modern air to the representatives of ethnic identity. Women mixed and matched traditional and western garments and accessories to achieve a modern look. There was also growing fusion between the fashion of different cultures, as women has more chances now to interact with other ethnic communities in school and at work. unlike before 1950s, when they have little rights and confined in their home..
Jane fashion designer (Her world Jan 1961)
Adapting the cheongsam to the latest vogues- for day wear, the modern Singaporean woman would have choose a sleeveless polyester cheongsam with trendy geometric. For handbag she used a western style bag for shopping or work, or a dainty clutch just big enough to hold cash and handkerchief. A hot day is a necessity to carry a floral umbrella or mini fan, which would serve as an accessory as well. Even the smallest detail in wardrobes coordination mattered. . .
The picture below shows the change from the previous cheongsam, to a sleeveless one with trendy pattern imprinted on it, the accessories besides shows some of western accessories the women would carries, that they match to achieve a modern look. This shows the modernization the colonial has brought about to the society, also influences the popular culture of fashion in certain aspect.
Hence, in the 1950s-1960s, one of the prevalent factors that influences the fashion styles is partially due to greater rights given to women and foreign influences (western fashion sense that hybrid with the traditional clothes)In 1965, it marks the independent of Singapore. Emerging to form a common identity among the immigrants of different race. It was striving to be a nation that is self-dependent and economically better established. After the separation with Malaysia, there was a need to establish itself as a self-dependent country. Even when we were a country with little resources, people were one of the main resources of this country.
In the midst of it, people were very much encouraged and channel into the working force. The dressing and fashion in the sense has to cater with the need of the working-class of people. Fashion during the period of 1960s, has to uplift the outlook of the people in a way that will make them look smarter and properly dressed. Dressing to the government then was a reflection of economy of the country, and the will of the people. A culture of how the people were to dress in the sense has to cater to the majority needs of the people and yet at the same time falls in line with the government vision for the country.
Bellows shows the picture of the man who is in suits and ties, where the Minister for Labour was also in the fashion show.
MINISTER FOR LABOUR, JEK YEUN THONG OPENS TAILORS' EXHIBITION & MEN'S FASHION SHOW AT VICTORIA MEMORIAL HALL. PICTURE SHOWS A MALE MODEL ON THE CATWALK [GROUP DESCRIPTION BY EVENT FROM TRANSFERRING AGENCY]
However, the government also provides a platform in which popular culture like fashion could strive. Even in the speech made by the ministry of culture, he encourage to start a training scheme to bring up young and efficient tailor, to transform the styles and fashion to the people and even offer its help their services to help to organize such training scheme.1 The government does have a certain push on the popular culture of fashion scene.
Traditional Wear
The qipao is the traditional dress for Chinese women, and has been in use since 1636, when the Manchurians conquered China. In Singapore, it was worn for everyday occasions up to the late 1960s. With the rise of Western culture, the masses began to patronise Western fashion, relegating traditional Chinese wear to uniforms for restaurant and hotel staff. Occasionally, it would be seen as formal wear in ceremonial and diplomatic occasions. However, it began to make a comeback as women regained their pride in being “Asian” and used the qipao as a means of self-representation.
This traditional dress used to be an ankle-length straight-cut dress with a high collar. Sleeves were cut wide above the wrist but narrowed towards the shoulders. A slit was cut on each side of the dress, and undergarments were worn to avoid the display of limbs.
Under the influence of Western dress styles, the qipao evolved from its original long, loose-fitting form into the current form-fitting version which accentuates the feminine figure. The use of undergarments to conceal limbs has been discontinued, and the slit length has increased to facilitate movement, as well as displaying the wearer’s shapely legs. There have been many variations of the standard qipao over the years, created by altering the length of the hem, sleeves, and height of collar. It has even been mixed and matched with other dressing styles, e.g. shortened as a top and worn with a skirt.
The 1950s to 1960s was a formative period for Singapore, as self-governance and independence came in rapid succession. Prior to this, national identity was non-existent, for the society was largely made up of immigrants who identified more with their homeland. The choice of everyday wear (i.e. qipao) reflects this mentality, for they retained this aspect of their cultural identity. However, as Singapore transited from a British colony to an independent nation, there was an influx of Western cultural products, including fashion, partly due to the trading activities that Singapore engaged in with countries around the world. The increasing popularity of Western culture meant that women in Singapore started to leave the qipao behind for trendier Western clothes.
Women's Accessories
It should be noted that at that time, stalls were usually set up at roadsides selling all sorts of merchandise. Shopping centres or shophouses specialising in fashion were not seen until about one or two decades later. Fashion was simply not significant in this era of hardship and struggle. Most textiles and garments were imported and people chose quality and durability over aesthetic values.
After World War II, a leather shortage meant that different fabrics such as velvet, cotton, and rayon were used to make bags. It clearly reflected the lack of resources Singapore faced during the post war period. However that still did not stop the innovations in fashion. Another notable point is that, during the 1950s and 1960s, women were making their way out of homemaking roles. They required larger and practical bags which included the tote bag ideal for shopping and work. The red tote with metal clasp and nylon lining was one such example.
(Pictures: Vintage Singapore, Souvenir from the Recent Past, 1950)
